Friday, August 14, 2026

EEC Tour Day 3 - San Esteban de Gormaz (really Burgos de Osma)

They slackened the reins, and began their journey,
For the time drew near to depart the kingdom.
...
The faithful Campeador was leaving the kingdom.
On the left was San Esteban, that splendid city,
On the right were the towers built by the Moors


We had arranged to free the bikes from lockup at 7am and get a coffee. We where to be dressed and packed and waiting at 6:45. Trouble started when Bob called us to his room in a panic unable to find his wallet.

After a lot of searching the highest likely scenario was it popped out of his pocket at dinner. Since there was no way to contact the restaurant for a few hours, Mike and I ditched him. He still had most of his wad of cash (rolling eyes emoji) and the rest was credit cards he wasn't using. He could put a hold on them and hope that he finds them. At that point he had written off the cash in the wallet. His plan was to find or write of the wallet by about 10am and ride a more direct shorter route.

Mike and I started about 7:30 and the first hour was amazing. We climbed through rocky craggs and a tunnel then descended to Caleruega where we loaded up at the gas station convenience store.


There rest of the day was through rolling hills of farm fields and vineyards.



Probably around 10 we got word from Bob his wallet was at the restaurant and all the money was there. He gave the guy 40€ and gleefully started riding. I'm not sure what his plan was but Google Maps and his sense of direction put him on a strange route.

We stopped for a coffee in Arendilla and then a coke and tortilla in Alcubilla de Avellaneda. Tortilla was not as good as yesterday's which was excellent but it hit the spot.

As we approached San Esteban de Gormaz we could see the dominant Castillo de San Esteban de Gormaz ruins above the town. In San Esteban de Gormaz we stopped at the tourist office and got our Camino del Cid stamps.


Soon we were at the hotel in Burgo de Osma. We left our bike in a garage under the hotel. Not terribly secure but should be ok. A quick shower and Mike and I were eating in the hotel restaurant. It was pretty good. Mike had the flank steak and I had lamb chops.


Bob arrived at 4 - only two hours after us. His 60km ride had turned into 79km with his unusual route. All in all he made pretty good time.

After a siesta we walked to town. Things were hopping. All the bars were full of teams of people pre-gaming for something. We walked around Burgos de Osma and it is quite impressive. There is an long wall, some tall ruins and a massive cathedral. We walked through the Plaza Mayor with a giant stage set up and it felt like a party was about to explode.  

Later the teams marched and most had drums and marching bands. It was a party. We watched them go by as we ate and drank at a pretty good place.

Having known nothing about Burgos de Osma before this I can now recommend it as a place worth checking out in Spain. Beautiful town with some impressive old buildings and a super cute Centro.


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